Sihanoukville report: abandoned towers and seaside redevelopment

Sihanoukville is the largest coastal city in Cambodia and home to its main port. It has great beaches and a train to Phnom Penh. Despite this beautiful natural setting, the city has become better known for its ghost towers and casino-related crime.

I was in Sihanoukville early in 2022 – weeks after the country had reopened – and I wasn’t planning on returning so soon. In 2024 Royal Railway of Cambodia bought some second-hand train sets from Japan to replace the old train carriages in use. This was enough to bring me back for another visit

I took the train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville in December 2024, and these new carriages are a dramatic improvement over the old ones. After getting the train, I stayed in Sihanoukville to check in on some of the major projects and see how tourism is faring after the pandemic.

This trip report includes an update on one of the biggest mixed-use developments under construction in Cambodia, prominent abandoned projects, and the redevelopment of Ochheuteal and Otres Beach.

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